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Tofu pudding

Tofu pudding

豆腐花
Set by pouringBeansHot or coldWeekendKids like itTakes carehands-on 40 min · start to finish 10 hr

“The bowl by the herbal-tea shop door, made at home.”

Ingredientsserves 4

百子櫃Soybean· soaked overnight; or 1.2 L of home-made soy milk150 g
百子櫃Gypsum / GDL· food-grade gypsum; or a teaspoon (about 3 g) of GDL dissolved in two tablespoons of waterabout 4 g
雜貨舖Cornflour· cornflour, mixed with the gypsum; not needed with GDL8 g
雜貨舖Brown sugar· or slab sugar, for the syrup100 g
街市Fresh ginger· mature ginger, for the syrup2 slices

Equipment

  • A tall pot; soy milk boils over
  • A cloth or muslin bag for straining
  • A flat ladle, to shave it out in slices

Method

  1. Drain the soaked beans and blend them with six cups of water (1.5 L) in two batches until completely smooth.
  2. Strain through a cloth or muslin bag, squeezing hard; discard the pulp or keep it for cooking.
  3. Bring the raw milk to the boil in a tall pot, then keep it at a gentle boil five to eight minutes, stirring the bottom and skimming the foam. Raw soy milk foams up violently and must be watched, and it must be boiled through; raw soy milk is not safe to eat.
  4. Syrup: dissolve the sugar (or slab sugar) in 100 ml of water with the ginger slices and set aside.
  5. Coagulant: stir the gypsum, cornflour and a quarter cup (60 ml) of water together in a large bowl or a second pot; with GDL, dissolve it in two tablespoons of water. Stir it again just before the pour so nothing sits on the bottom; skip this and the pudding does not set.
  6. Take the milk off the heat, let it drop for a minute to about 85 to 90°C, and pour it into the coagulant from a height, all at once. Do not stir. Do not move the bowl.
  7. Cover with a plate or a damp cloth and leave it twenty to forty minutes (forty minutes to an hour with gypsum). If it does not set: carton soy milk is the commonest cause, thin in protein, and GDL especially needs a high-protein milk, so make your own or use an unsweetened milk with at least 8 g protein per 250 ml; otherwise the gypsum settled before the pour, the bowl was stirred afterwards, the milk was too cool (under 80°C), or it had boiled over and scorched. Set but sour is too much GDL; set but grainy or weeping is too much gypsum, or it was cut too soon.
  8. Shave it into bowls in thin slices with a flat ladle and pour the syrup over. Hot in winter, chilled in summer. Gypsum gives the market-stall bowl, strong in bean flavour and very slightly grainy; GDL gives a silk-smooth, faintly tangy pudding that never falls apart. Both are 豆腐花; choose by the texture you want.

Take care

  • Contains soy.
  • Food-grade gypsum only, from a food shop, with 食用 or food grade on the packet; never builder's plaster.
  • Home-made soy milk must be boiled through, since raw soy milk is not safe to eat; it boils over, so use a tall pot.

The story

豆腐花 is the food of the 涼茶舖, ladled warm from a wooden bucket under a cloth with a spoon of brown sugar, and the market stall's breakfast. HK01's page is the modern argument about it, the gypsum that has made it for a thousand years against the newer GDL, and the Michelin Macau piece and 肥丁's four-coagulant comparison are the two best modern accounts of getting it to set.

Lo Fo Tong is cultural food-heritage reference, not medical advice. If you are pregnant, unwell or on medication, talk to your doctor or registered practitioner before changing what is in the pot.